THOMAS: Were you apprehensive about opening in Paris? VONGERITCHEN: I was a little afraid. But it was always in the back of my mind to come back one day and do something here. I wanted to bring my experience of 15 years in New York to Paris, to do something with American flair and energy. [Five years ago] I wouldn’t have even dared. But now Parisians are more like Americans… going out five, six times a week. They want traditional brasserie fare, Michelin stars and they are open to new ideas, to a good time and a good ambience.
What’s the most important thing that you learned in America? Communication. French chefs are very–not closed-minded–but focused. My chef here is an American. I needed someone that is open-minded and flexible. The old-time chefs in France are very “do it my way.”
Like the chefs you worked for when you started? Yeah. I was very lucky to work with these men. But each time I went to another one, I had to erase everything I had learned from the one I had just left, like the way they peeled apples or potatoes. It was about one person’s way of doing things. I was like that for a little while, too, but I changed because you learn so much from your colleagues. My kitchen is more like a democracy now. If someone has an idea, I want to hear it, see it. I want to taste it.
What’s the difference between the United States and France when it comes to dining? The kitchen is still very new in America, historically speaking–so people there are willing to try new things. The traditions aren’t set like they are in France.
What did you learn in Asia that you took to New York? Asia was a culture shock. It changed my mind completely. I was used to cooking with stocks that would simmer for hours and hours. In Asia everything is in a pot of water: throw in some spices, lemongrass and 10 minutes later you have the best soup in the world. I put my French training away for a while and learned.
Do you think the trend toward fusion cuisine–like your French-Thai–will eventually wipe out traditional cooking? No, I don’t think so. Take French food. Some say French food is too rich. But that’s [Auguste] Escoffier’s style of cooking, and in the end, Escoffier was one guy who did really fine hotel food. The true French cooking for me is regional food: choucroute from Alsace, cassoulet from the Southwest, bouillabaisse from Provence, and there isn’t cream and butter in any of it. I never had a hollandaise or beurre blanc when I was growing up. It was braised meats, pot-au-feu. I’m not anti-Escoffier, but how can one person qualify French cooking? He may have been right at the time, but not anymore.
What is your favorite meal? Thai street food, from the carts in Bangkok. It has so much flavor. That’s my junk food.
What are your favorite restaurants? In New York I love Daniel Boulud’s Restaurant Daniel, and Tom Colicchio’s Craft, where you choose exactly what you want–your meat, your vegetables, everything–piece by piece. I go to Starbucks every morning and get my grande latte. I love Starbucks. In Paris I love Arpege. The chef Alain Passard is really an artist. In London there’s an Indian restaurant called Tamarind that does beautiful food. In Bangkok it’s street food–always. And the best Chinese in Hong Kong is Man Wa. It’s so important for a chef to travel. You get so inspired. I go to Asia two or three times a year and come back with 20 or 30 recipes.
Do you still cook in your restaurants? That’s my therapy. I like to do business. I like to be involved in the design. But I need my six hours of therapy every day, in every town. I test-cook, come up with new dishes and “tinker.” I wouldn’t feel comfortable if I didn’t spend a couple of hours in the kitchen each day. I may not run the marathon anymore. But I do the 200 meters. I need the rush.
